Are Your Reds Browning Out?
When our Guests with Glam Red Hair come in and you are all mixed and ready to go... We use the formula from last time because it looked great when she left. After a couple of services, that actual formula worked well and then … the ends start to "brown out”.
We really should not mix the mid-length and ends formula until we see WHAT the mid-length and ends need.
Here are some guidelines for mid length and ends formulas to prevent “browning out”:
If the color has faded tone:
0N colorless + Pure Tone (Deposit Only Color Treatment, Full Spectrum™ Permanent, or Full Spectrum Deep™) + 5 volume
With the new 0N Universal this is recommended by Aveda. Until you receive the new product you can use the 0N colorless from the Deposit Only Color Treatment.
If the color has faded 1 level and tone:
Deposit Only Color Treatment - Lt Pure Base + Pure Tone (Deposit Only Color Treatment, Full Spectrum™ Permanent, or Full Spectrum Deep™... FSP and FSD pure tones not recommended by Aveda) + Activator
If the color has faded 2 levels and tone:
Full Spectrum™ Permanent formula. I.E. Pure Base + Pure Tone + Developer
If the color is "browning out":
You have choices for this scenario.
1) Do your formula with 30 Volume making your formula strong to “feed the 30”. 30 Volume is powerful enough to kill some of the Pure Tone you are counting on for deposition and reflection. By making a strong formula you are compensation for the Pure Tone that has been taken out by the 30. (Time for 20 - 30 minutes)
2) If you use Dark Pure Base on your original formula, next time pull through Light Pure Base + 20 volume, OR
3) Light Pure Base + 30 Volume making your formula strong (time for 20 - 30 minutes)
note: with the new Intense Base, you would make an Intense Level 8 or 9 for a Light Pure Base formula
I find it better to add 10-15 minutes to the processing time for Red Heads. Having the extra time to process they fade less and have more shine.
Fading is caused by porosity in the hair. It is better for your Guest to condition with either the Color Conserve Masque or The Sun Source Masque the shampoo before their service. While doing your consultation, spray with the Equalizing Solution and dry completely, proceed with service.