Exploring: Design Lines, Weight Lines and Disconnection with Lupe Voss and Peter Gray

When crafting the perfect hue, I determine my placement by following the lines (corners and edges) of a haircut. This technique helps me to create ‘complimentary color,’ which maximizes the impact of both the cut and the color. I call this ‘reading a haircut.’

But recently, I educated at a salon where cut-specialists were taught that edges – the edges that I so diligently work to assess and accentuate – are a negative thing. As a result, the colorists find themselves stuck, creatively. Their finished looks are often ‘soft and uninspiring;’ they’re lackluster. The stylists asked me to work with them with them in learning: how can we create dimensional color, when there are no corners? They asked. Though I provided them with an answer, it wasn’t an answer wholly to my liking, and I continued to ponder their dilemma.

So, to provide top-notch color solutions to all manners of hair cutting – both cornered and corner less – I consulted with Peter Gray, cut-expert and session stylist. Read on to discover the meaning of design lines, weight lines and disconnection – plus learn real-life, behind the chair color solutions for each.

Design lines. “A design line is generally referred to as where the edge or corner is retained, rather than blended through,” says Peter. “Contrast and dimension are what make haircuts and color interesting!”

Colorists: When applying color to a design line, aim to enhance the line, making it the focal point of the cut.

Weight line. “A weight line isn’t necessarily a corner,” says Peter. “Rather it’s an area of transition between short and long hair.”

Colorists: When working with a weight line, deepen or shadow any recessed areas and highlight or accentuate longer strands.

Disconnection. “Disconnection is the line created between areas of differing length. Generally, there is limited blending or no blending,” Peter explains.

Colorists: Working with disconnection will automatically create a subsection to work in. 

When working collaboratively to create complementary cuts and colors, it’s important to keep both of the crucial elements in mind: the cut and the color. By keeping the lines of communication open, you can successfully elevate your end results, and produce striking and dimensional hues, that flatter and accentuate the design lines, weight lines and disconnection of any cut – corners or not.

Redlands, CA·Posted Nov 19