Color-Techniques 101, Part I: New Growth, Mid-Lengths and Ends
Let’s face it: Working behind the chair can be challenging. Certainly, we all love this crazy lifestyle – but sometimes, hectic schedules can be limiting – and demand getting back to the basics.
While incorporating new and fun techniques can help to break up the monotony of a jam-packed schedule, it’s important to keep a few basic methods in mind. Read on to get exclusive tips and tricks from Hair Color Magic Creator, Lupe Voss, and learn how you can streamline your color application techniques – to get the best results, every time.
Trolley set up
Proper tool selection is paramount to creating top-notch results. To read more about my tools of choice, go here.
New growth application
A ‘clean’ new growth application can prevent bleach overlap and banding. Here’s how.
- When covering ‘new growth,’ start by sub-sectioning the hair in quarters. Begin by parting straight back from the center of the forehead, all the way to the nape of the neck. Now, part from ear to ear, crossing over the crown of the head. At this point, you should have your client’s hair parted into four simple sections.
- oQuick tip: If your client parts to the side, be sure to section from the part, and not the center of the head.
- Let the length of the new growth determine the depth of your color bowl dip.
- oIf your guest has ¼ inch of growth, dip your brush ¼ inch into your bowl. Place color on new growth; do not brush up.
- oAlternatively, if the new growth extends beyond ¼ inch, dip the brush ½ inch into the bowl. Apply color to the new growth by laying the color on the hair, and lightly brush up, making sure to keep your brush neat and clean. Color should be applied with bristlesonly; for optimal results, eschew using the plastic part of the brush.
- Take fine partings; ideally, you should be able to see your fingers through the parting. This will ensure the most even application (preventing shadows and ‘missed spots’).
- Take care to work systematically: Once you’ve correctly sectioned and parted strands, and have apply product to new growth areas, over-direct your parting, and apply color to the underside of the hair. Next, apply color to the top of the next parting, over-direct and apply to the underside, making sure to repeat the process until the entire head of hair is complete.
- After each parting is evenly saturated, gently tug towards your chest and drop. By doing this, you’re ‘fanning out’ the parting, and adding ample oxygen, which is necessary for seamless processing.
Remember: for the perfect end results, work neat – and work clean.
Mid lengths and ends
Ill-applied color on the lengths and ends can result in spotty or hollow-looking results. For even, rich results, follow these techniques.
- Start out in the back: take ¼ inch to ½ inch partings.
- Apply your color formulation to the hair in horizontal motions, making sure that your brush is positioned vertically; work the color back and forth. I refer to this as ‘rolling the hair.’
- Lay long strands onto foils, to ensure that you’re working ‘clean.’
- Staring on the sides, work your way up the back of the head; you’ll eventually end up at the part.
- When finished with your application, wrap the mid-lengths and ends in foil.
Shampoo out left-behind color
Leaving hair color (even in trace amounts) on the hair can cause porosity issues – which can lead to premature fading. So read, here, to learn how you can properly remove color from freshly tinted strands – and leave your guest looking and feeling their very best, post service and beyond.
While implementing basic techniques can feel tedious, it’s important to remember to ‘begin at the beginning.’ Taking short cuts can lead to less than stellar results – and less than satisfied clients. So, when you’re crunched for time, and booked back-to-back, rely on these basic techniques to give you beautiful results that you can count on.
If you liked these techniques, stay tuned for Part II of this Technical Basics 101 series, which will cover simple tips and tricks for flawless ‘foiling’ and ‘tipping.’