Master Colorist Lupe Voss is known for both her timeless and on-trend color transformations – and today – she’s sharing her tips and tricks for creating this gorgeous, icy blonde hue. Lupe, who promotes maintaining the health and vitality of client’s strands, shares her ultra-nourishing techniques, here.
Get the Look
The method for achieving this look will vary slightly, depending on the pre-existing condition of your client’s hair: virgin or retouch. Additionally, to get the perfect shade, you’ll want to take the natural remaining pigments (or contributing pigments) into consideration. Find out how, here.
- On virgin hair. Apply lightening formula ½ inch from the scalp, down to the mid-lengths and ends. Make sure to evenly distribute the lifting formula for even opaqueness, which will help to lift the hair, evenly. Once the mid-lengths and ends have lifted to 50% of your desired level, mix a new bowl of lightener and apply to the scalp.
- Re-touch. Apply lightening formula to the new growth and process. When shampooing, pull some of the lightening formula through to the ends to encourage a shift of the previous toner.
- Notes on processing time. Let your product process to the desired level. To accomplish this, refer to the natural remaining pigment chart, which will help to indicate the level reached. For example: Level 10 = Pale Yellow, level 9 = yellow, and level 8 = orange yellow.
“Once you’ve finished processing the bleach, make sure to shampoo the hair three times, well,” advises Lupe. “Once the product is completely removed, make sure to condition strands. This will help to ensure even toning. And when it comes to toning,” adds Lupe, “make sure to choose the correct base to neutralize the natural remaining pigment. Also, you can mix two toners together, which will combine to create a reflective tone.”
Level Natural Remaining Pigment Compliment
10 Pale Yellow Violet
9 Yellow Violet
8 Orange Yellow Blue Violet
“As stylists, it’s our job to lift our client’s hair safely – and get it toned to perfection,” says Lupe. “Keeping the hair healthy during the service is the key to doing this, and I find that using conditioners that deeply nurture and nourish strands can help to stave off damage. Also, make sure to inform clients about the best at-home care for their color. Proper products can help to keep hair in its best condition – which will work to your advantage when it comes time to perform their next service. Beautiful, healthy hair makes for shiny and dimensional color,” concludes Lupe.
Image by: @emanueljayv